La Dulce Vida, the Sweet life @ Spain

Aah Spain! I cannot help but sigh as I think of my recent trip to this gorgeous country a couple of months back. Now for the uninitiated, what do you think of when you immediately visualize Spanish cuisine? Paellas, Tapas, sangria, sea food, Churros & hot chocolate, would be my usual guesses. Spain is about these but so much more as well. For instance, how many Spanish desserts can you count on the tip of your hands? Well yes, I hear you. Not many. At least I couldn’t have prior to this trip. Churros & hot chocolate (though its more a breakfast item or a snack than a dessert) is now well placed on the gastronomic map. But what about the local, traditional Spanish desserts that most of us have never heard of. After trying some of the best traditional desserts through the trip, I can proudly say Spain offered one of the most gastronomic experiences so far.

Given the penchant for dulces (sweets) at HeartBakes, this blog post focuses on the peculiar features of Spanish desserts with some incredible anecdotes & examples. History is one of the most interesting stories that any culture can offer. And Spanish desserts is in no way behind. But please note it’s just the tip of the iceberg and no way claims to be in exhaustive. At the end, we leave you with delectable visual treats and where you can get them, if traveling in Spain. 

The delectable window of Casa Mira, one of the oldest bakeries of Madrid and known for its turrons

Traditional Spanish baking is much influenced by religion & festivals.

Historically, a lot of baking in Spain has revolved around religious ceremonies and festivals. Christianity in that sense continues to influence the consumption of these delectable sweets & pastries amongst locals. Spaniards have a serious relationship with the humble but delicious flans or crème caramels (different from Crème Brulee) prepared at homes for all special occasions. Crema Catalana, one of the most popular delicious Spanish custards in Catalonia, it is eaten specifically on Saint Joseph day on March 19. But today these are so iconic of the region that it is found in almost every restaurant all year round. We found lots of versions through the trip. We also bumped into Natillas, a lighter custard with no burnt topping. 

Various versions of Spanish custards, including Crema Catalana in extreme left, Natillas - second from right and at the right, one of the best Flans we had in Spain at La Primera, Madrid.

​A lot of desserts are seen particularly during Christmas or during Lent and Easter. For instance, the Roscón de Reyes or the King’s Ring cake represents & eaten specifically around 6th January each year, when the Three Wise men visited baby Jesus. This sweet cake (or even a bread) is shaped like a ring and studded with candies to represent a ring. Polvorones or almond cookies (either crispy or soft) are baked especially during Christmas and are delicious. Pestinos a deep-fried pastry and coated with honey is a popular treat during Christmas across Andalucian (South) Spain. Spaniards take their Torrijas seriously (and nope, do not call it a French toast!), a sweet bread soaked in eggs and milk and topped with sugar syrup, honey, cinnamon, wine or even liquor, across the cities, prepared during Lent & Easter. The Santiago or St. James’ cake, named after the patron Saint of Spain, comes from the Galician Spain - a moist and dense cake made of almonds, eggs, lemon and sugar.

Roscon de Reyes or Kings Cake, available at Antigua Pasterlia del Pozo & El Riojano, Madrid

Morish Pestinos in forefront with the charming backdrop of a small bakery - Panaderia Hlos Solana, Albaycin, Granada

Sometimes the best finds are impromptu! Rosquilles del Anis on the left & a traditional Almond cake on the right at a Sunday market off La Rambhla, Barcelona

Baking by the Cloistered nuns -  and its incredible hunt.

​Now this may come as a surprise, but the cloistered nuns have been an integral part of Spanish baking and known through the country for their phenomenal baking skill. The cookies or mantecados (eaten especially during Christmas), magdelenas, marzipans and other sweetmeats that they churn out are delicious. Nuns in Spain have been baking since centuries to support their convent with an additional income. But since they are leading a closed life, they prefer not coming in direct contact with the outside world. The entire transaction happens through a rotating table or cupboard where you cannot see them.

Each convent has their own specialty.  Hidden away from the public (specially the tourist) eye, they do not advertise themselves - no banners, no directions (and no English) - all through word of mouth and present in all major cities across Spain. One way to find them would be that they are usually located very close to a monastery, with a small sign on the door “Ventas de Dulces” or sweets for sale.

We had the privilege of visiting one such convent, curious more for the experience than the goodies frankly. This was the Convent of Saint Leandro in Seville, tucked in one of the by lanes off Plaza de San Ildefonso. We had marked this spot on our extensive map the best we could but managed to lose our way despite it! Eventually when we did find, the door had just a small notice and we would probably have missed it if not for an American family stepping out with a goodie bag in their hands. Anyways, once inside we found our way to a small window with a rotating table (of sorts). Hit the buzzer and soon a sweet voice asked us in Spanish how she could help us. We conveyed in our monosyllabic Spanish that we wanted the magdelenas or the muffins and within seconds the table rotated with a packet on it. We kept the change and the table rotated back again and then we thanked each other. And that was it. A short but charming interaction with no direct contact but some delicious goodies. One of our tour guides in Madrid later told us that for these nuns, baking is a way of life; it is their way to combine work and prayer. 

Buying from the Convent of Saint San Leandro

Sadly, the number of these convents have drastically reduced as less & less women are entering this life as well as for paucity of funds. Today few bakeries across cities such as Caleum at Barcelona or Pozo de Antigua in Madrid (both a must visit) source these cookies from popular convents in respective cities. 

Absolutely delicious baked goodies - magdelenas, sneckers, xuxos, meringue cookies - at Montserrat, a monastery of Benedict monks. Traditionally the monks have been known to make their own liqueur which is sold through Catalonia

Moorish & Latin American influence on Spanish dessert

The liberal use of almonds, spices and honey in Spanish desserts are of particularly Moorish influence. One of the most iconic variation of the Muslim sweetmeat is Marzipan as found in its charming birth place, Toledo, a medieval city known as a UNESCO heritage spot. First prepared by the nuns of the Convent of San Clemente, marzipan is typically made of just two ingredients - almonds and sugar, and often shaped and filled in peculiar manner. Today there are innumerable variations and marzipans are found all over the country. But in case you get the chance to visit Toledo, please do head over to the iconic Sante Tome for some delicious marzipan. Empanadas, a popular baked stuffed pastry that can be either sweet or savoury, typically belong to Galician gastronomy but clearly have Moorish influence. A typical Morish dessert is the delicious Piononos from Granada, a vertical sponge (like a swiss roll) filled with syrup & rum and topped with cream - the region’s tribute to Pope Pius. 

Fruit marzipans at Santo Tome, Toledo

Sweet & savoury empanadillas at Belus, Madrid

Piononos, the iconic desserts of Granada

Surprisingly, while raw chocolate is the gift from Latin American countries, the hot chocolate in its current form originated only in Spain. Historically, a symbol of wealth, the typical Spanish hot chocolate is thicker, creamier (with undertones of spices) than the European version. We had our favourite ones at Caleum at Barcelona. Churros, a fried elongated deep-fried dough tossed in sugar, combined with hot chocolate, is one of the most popular snacks across Spain.

Apart from chocolate, vanilla, cinnamon and coffee have been indispensable Latin American exports to Spanish gastronomy.

L to R: Churros from Xurreria Trebol, Barcelona; Bib-Rhambhla, Granada; and the iconic San Gines, Madrid, respectively

Modern spin to Spanish desserts

Spanish desserts have evolved today with use of modern techniques & with the influence of French pastry making & American baking. While we experienced an entirely enchanting world of traditional desserts, we also got a glimpse of modern, plated desserts that are as complex as they are delicious. There are others who have combined old flavours with new to recreate something unique. French influence on modern Spanish baking is apparent with the market flooded with typical French desserts such as crema filled rolls, sweet breads, macarons, ecclairs and pastries, among others. Cupcakes which are American sweethearts are not anywhere behind.

On the right: a creative version of the humble of flan in Barcelona
Below: Ofelia, a popular American bakery in Seville; croissants at Creme de la creme, Seville; cinnamon ice cream with cream and mandarin slush at La Pinxa del Bisbe, Barcelona; Milhojas or millefuille, a typical French pastry at San Miguel Mercado, Madrid

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In the end, we leave you with an useful list of bakeries/ dessert places in Spain, followed by some visual delights because photographs are the next best thing to having it for real. We hope when in Spain, you will eat like the locals do. We hope this post gives you a nudge in that direction, at least where the dulces are concerned. Enjoy!

Our recommended list of must visits (in no particular order):

• La Panxa Del Bisbe, a quirky but classy restaurant that serves creative modern Spanish food & desserts - we went there twice during our stay in Barca, and that says a lot
• Brunells, one of the oldest bakeries of Barcelona
• Caelum, a charming bakery in the heart of Gothic quarter, Barcelona
• Xurreria Trebol, a favourite with locals
• Forn Baluard. An institution in Barcelona & known for its breads
• Panaderia Hnos Solana, Granada. A small but quaint bakery popular with the locals
• La Tienda de la Azotea, Seville. Try their tapas as well the torrijas here - divine!
• Ofelia Bakery, Seville. An American bakery very popular with locals. Try their cupcakes, they are amazing.
• Manu Jara, a charming traditional bakery in Triana neighbourhood of Seville
• Santo Tome, Toledo. One of the oldest bakeries in Toledo and known for its marzipan
• Belus, Madrid. Very popular bakery known for its coffee and traditional Spanish desserts
• San Gines Chocolateria, Madrid. A popular tourist destination and has a line all the time
• La Primera, Madrid. A must visit for modern fine dining Spanish food & desserts. Each dish is a work of art. 
• Casa Mira, Madrid. A traditional bakery & a child’s delight -known especially for its turrons
• Antigua Pastelería del Pozo, another traditional bakery in Madrid. Check out their vintage tilling machine!
• La Mallorquina, right at the corner of Puerta del Sol, Madrid. Very popular with both tourists and locals
• El Riojano, Madrid. A traditional Spanish bakery that houses the famous Rosco de Reyes cake
• Mercado San Miguel, a beautiful recently renovated food market place - a must visit. This place is a gastronomic delight

L to R: Caelum at Barri Gothic, Barcelona; most favourite Spanish hot chocolate teamed with Santiago cake & crema catalana; baked goodies by nuns from across the city; and finally their beautiful window with delicious goodies

Bunyols, a deep fried Spanish doughnut eaten typically on All Saints Day @ Brunells in Barcelona

The best version of torrijas we had at La Tienda de la Azotea, Seville

Forn Baluard, known for its breads; bread proofing on the left

A typical evening scene at La Mallorquina, Madrid when tourists & locals need their dulce and coffee

Rolls! Of as many kinds as you could think of.

Churros are fried like this and then cut in small pieces @ San Gines, Madrid

Florentinas - the perfect confluence of Arabic & French baking

Antigua Pasteleria del Pozo in Madrid. Check out their tilling machine!

Turrons or Spanish version of nougats. You get the soft (left at Casa Mira, Madrid) and the hard (right, at Toledo) kind. Both are delicious!

Chocolate empanadas at Granada

Delicious pastry rolls filled with pastry creme - delicious!

Lavender ice cream - this was so so delicious that we couldn't resist despite the hail storm or the cold.

One of the best vanilla ice creams I have had at Juan Laloca at Madrid. You cans see the specks of vanilla bean - yum.