The Gastronomic Turkey!

Have you ever thought what does food heaven look like? Well, it just might look like Turkey! In fact, Mr. A & I are still doing the damage control from our trip to Turkey in August and this post will specifically focus on its food scene, savouries to be precise. Desserts & breads deserve a separate post, in HeartBakes - obviously. Food in Turkey is a weighty matter, since I have come back with considerable extra luggage, both on & off me, you see. In our 10 days we realised we have just skimmed its hearty surface but still there’s so much to write home about.

When A & I travel abroad, we just ‘give in’ to the local culture. Food naturally becomes an integral part of our trip. Yes, we actually do our research on places to eat, what (and not) to eat prior to our journey. We get thrilled just by the thought of navigating through the streets, with a map on hand, and an eagle eye on the street names, if present. I think we enjoy the restaurant hunt as much, if not more than, the food that is served. Jostling crowds, small by lanes, uphill & cobbled streets, endless walking, language barrier, broken heels (really!) - nothing does stand in our way to that chosen restaurant. But there have also been times when we have simply chosen to heed local advice and take it as it comes. Turkey has been like that & did not disappoint us either way.

The lunch buffet at the Atatürk airport, Istanbul, where food can be expensive but delicious!

Turkish cuisine is actually a mix of Ottoman & Greek cuisine. So where on one hand you will find kebabs, meats & lamb, on the other hand, fresh produce such as goat cheeses, local honey, nuts, olives & fresh vegetables are equally important on a dining table. The fact that the country had a huge Greek population until 1923 has left much mark on its food.  A vegetarian has much to choose from, while in Turkey.

Breakfasts were lavish - always!

Cheeses or peynir are a must have - whether the artisanal milk cheese from white sheep, feta or kosher.

So in this post, and a series of others, I bring to you snapshots of our food journey while in Turkey. With so many grilled dishes, salads, nuts, fresh fruits & vegetables, Turkish cuisine is actually the healthier of the European cuisines. But we also realised that the extent to which all Western cuisines are “Indian-ised” may make it difficult for many to adjust to these simple flavours. But once you approach food with an open mind, at least where flavours are concerned, sky is really the limit. 

Locals enjoying fish sandwich along the Bosphorus on a Sunday

Mr. A enjoying his grilled fish with a stunning view of the city in Istanbul

Spices are the life of Turkish cuisine! This one's from the age old Spice Market in Eminonu, Istanbul

In Turkey, come every Friday, locals pour out into a traditional Turkish restaurant called Meyhane, which literally means "wine house". Once you enter, you order drinks (Raki being their local extremely potent drink), followed by a choice of meze. One gets to choose individual portions of cold and hot starters, with local bands keeping you entertained as do the talented locals who love to dance & sing along with their Raki. We have never been to a livelier party really. In Istanbul, the Istikal street, beyoglu is especially known for its night life.

Meze options being shown to us as soon as we sit in this age old Meyhanesi in Istikal street, Beyoglu, Istanbul

Another evening, another party! Dolmasi on the left, and a sumptuous basil fish on the right

The Kebaps are nothing like what you have had in India. Some might feel that they are mild in flavour, but it’s this very mildness that brings forth the flavours of the meats. Doner Kebap, Tavuk Kebap, Kofte, Testi kebap, Adana kebap - the variety is endless and often specific to a region. For instance, Testi kebaps are more specific to the Anatolian region. I especially loved the koftes or the meatballs which are served with buttered rice and either vegetables or French fries. One also has the option of getting these wrapped in a Turkish pita or Durum wrap, as it’s called. Mr. A on the other hand completely gorged on the grilled fishes.

Koftes or Turkish meatballs - a staple in any restaurant

Testi kebaps left marinating under the sun & then cooked in the same pots. These are broken with much drama later on the table!

During lunch, restaurants dish out a buffet with range of dishes to choose from - both vegetarian & non-veg. We were actually surprised to see the range of vegetarian dishes such as eggplants, French beans, Dolmasi (stuffed vine leaves with either rice or meat), spinach, kale, tomatoes, okra. Pumpkins are especially popular in the Anatolian region. Cities still get their vegetable supply from weekly farmer markets from nearby villages. Seriously, a simple tomato & cheese sandwich has never tasted as good, as it did in Turkey.

Dolmasi being stuffed in vine leaves by local women in Sirince village near Selcuk. We saw both vegetarian & non-veg dolmasi throughout Turkey.

Wednesday farmers' market in Selcuk - fresh, vibrant & photographer's delight

Hearty home style, lunch buffet capped with Ayran, a Turkish version of our buttermilk. Oh so yummy!

The buzzing street food in Turkey reflects how important food is in peoples’ lives. Locals still choose to spend hours over cay (pronounced as chai) or Turkish tea on the street side, along with a piece of Baklava. Whereas the locals are sipping their Turkish tea and coffee, it is the tourists who adore the apple tea, specifically. Be it kumpir or kestane, mussels or dried fruits, one cannot go hungry in Turkey for long. 

Apart from these food treasures, I leave you with some of the restaurant reviews that I have written from across the cities that we have visited. Hope you find this useful, in case you are ever traveling to Turkey. I sincerely hope you do, at least once in your lifetime!

Mr. Cook, Istanbul
Turk Art Terrace Restaurant, Istanbul
Ney'le Mey'le Meyhane, Istanbul
Selcuk Pidecesi, Selcuk
Efes Koftecisi, Selcuk
Ejder Restaurant, Selcuk
Nazar Borek, Goreme
Seten Restaurant, Goreme