Aah Spain! I cannot help but sigh as I think of my recent trip to this gorgeous country a couple of months back. Now for the uninitiated, what do you think of when you immediately visualize Spanish cuisine? Paellas, Tapas, sangria, sea food, Churros & hot chocolate, would be my usual guesses. Spain is about these but so much more as well. For instance, how many Spanish desserts can you count on the tip of your hands? Well yes, I hear you. Not many. At least I couldn’t have prior to this trip. Churros & hot chocolate (though its more a breakfast item or a snack than a dessert) is now well placed on the gastronomic map. But what about the local, traditional Spanish desserts that most of us have never heard of. After trying some of the best traditional desserts through the trip, I can proudly say Spain offered one of the most gastronomic experiences so far.

Given the penchant for dulces (sweets) at HeartBakes, this blog post focuses on the peculiar features of Spanish desserts with some incredible anecdotes & examples. History is one of the most interesting stories that any culture can offer. And Spanish desserts is in no way behind. But please note it’s just the tip of the iceberg and no way claims to be in exhaustive. At the end, we leave you with delectable visual treats and where you can get them, if traveling in Spain. 

Historically, a lot of baking in Spain has revolved around religious ceremonies and festivals. Christianity in that sense continues to influence the consumption of these delectable sweets & pastries amongst locals. Spaniards have a serious relationship with the humble but delicious flans or crème caramels (different from Crème Brulee) prepared at homes for all special occasions. Crema Catalana, one of the most popular delicious Spanish custards in Catalonia, it is eaten specifically on Saint Joseph day on March 19. But today these are so iconic of the region that it is found in almost every restaurant all year round. We found lots of versions through the trip. We also bumped into Natillas, a lighter custard with no burnt topping. 

​A lot of desserts are seen particularly during Christmas or during Lent and Easter. For instance, the Roscón de Reyes or the King’s Ring cake represents & eaten specifically around 6th January each year, when the Three Wise men visited baby Jesus. This sweet cake (or even a bread) is shaped like a ring and studded with candies to represent a ring. Polvorones or almond cookies (either crispy or soft) are baked especially during Christmas and are delicious. Pestinos a deep-fried pastry and coated with honey is a popular treat during Christmas across Andalucian (South) Spain. Spaniards take their Torrijas seriously (and nope, do not call it a French toast!), a sweet bread soaked in eggs and milk and topped with sugar syrup, honey, cinnamon, wine or even liquor, across the cities, prepared during Lent & Easter. The Santiago or St. James’ cake, named after the patron Saint of Spain, comes from the Galician Spain - a moist and dense cake made of almonds, eggs, lemon and sugar.

​Now this may come as a surprise, but the cloistered nuns have been an integral part of Spanish baking and known through the country for their phenomenal baking skill. The cookies or mantecados (eaten especially during Christmas), magdelenas, marzipans and other sweetmeats that they churn out are delicious. Nuns in Spain have been baking since centuries to support their convent with an additional income. But since they are leading a closed life, they prefer not coming in direct contact with the outside world. The entire transaction happens through a rotating table or cupboard where you cannot see them.

Each convent has their own specialty.  Hidden away from the public (specially the tourist) eye, they do not advertise themselves - no banners, no directions (and no English) - all through word of mouth and present in all major cities across Spain. One way to find them would be that they are usually located very close to a monastery, with a small sign on the door “Ventas de Dulces” or sweets for sale.

We had the privilege of visiting one such convent, curious more for the experience than the goodies frankly. This was the Convent of Saint Leandro in Seville, tucked in one of the by lanes off Plaza de San Ildefonso. We had marked this spot on our extensive map the best we could but managed to lose our way despite it! Eventually when we did find, the door had just a small notice and we would probably have missed it if not for an American family stepping out with a goodie bag in their hands. Anyways, once inside we found our way to a small window with a rotating table (of sorts). Hit the buzzer and soon a sweet voice asked us in Spanish how she could help us. We conveyed in our monosyllabic Spanish that we wanted the magdelenas or the muffins and within seconds the table rotated with a packet on it. We kept the change and the table rotated back again and then we thanked each other. And that was it. A short but charming interaction with no direct contact but some delicious goodies. One of our tour guides in Madrid later told us that for these nuns, baking is a way of life; it is their way to combine work and prayer. 

Sadly, the number of these convents have drastically reduced as less & less women are entering this life as well as for paucity of funds. Today few bakeries across cities such as Caleum at Barcelona or Pozo de Antigua in Madrid (both a must visit) source these cookies from popular convents in respective cities. 

The liberal use of almonds, spices and honey in Spanish desserts are of particularly Moorish influence. One of the most iconic variation of the Muslim sweetmeat is Marzipan as found in its charming birth place, Toledo, a medieval city known as a UNESCO heritage spot. First prepared by the nuns of the Convent of San Clemente, marzipan is typically made of just two ingredients - almonds and sugar, and often shaped and filled in peculiar manner. Today there are innumerable variations and marzipans are found all over the country. But in case you get the chance to visit Toledo, please do head over to the iconic Sante Tome for some delicious marzipan. Empanadas, a popular baked stuffed pastry that can be either sweet or savoury, typically belong to Galician gastronomy but clearly have Moorish influence. A typical Morish dessert is the delicious Piononos from Granada, a vertical sponge (like a swiss roll) filled with syrup & rum and topped with cream - the region’s tribute to Pope Pius. 

Surprisingly, while raw chocolate is the gift from Latin American countries, the hot chocolate in its current form originated only in Spain. Historically, a symbol of wealth, the typical Spanish hot chocolate is thicker, creamier (with undertones of spices) than the European version. We had our favourite ones at Caleum at Barcelona. Churros, a fried elongated deep-fried dough tossed in sugar, combined with hot chocolate, is one of the most popular snacks across Spain.

Apart from chocolate, vanilla, cinnamon and coffee have been indispensable Latin American exports to Spanish gastronomy.

Spanish desserts have evolved today with use of modern techniques & with the influence of French pastry making & American baking. While we experienced an entirely enchanting world of traditional desserts, we also got a glimpse of modern, plated desserts that are as complex as they are delicious. There are others who have combined old flavours with new to recreate something unique. French influence on modern Spanish baking is apparent with the market flooded with typical French desserts such as crema filled rolls, sweet breads, macarons, ecclairs and pastries, among others. Cupcakes which are American sweethearts are not anywhere behind.

On the right: a creative version of the humble of flan in Barcelona
Below: Ofelia, a popular American bakery in Seville; croissants at Creme de la creme, Seville; cinnamon ice cream with cream and mandarin slush at La Pinxa del Bisbe, Barcelona; Milhojas or millefuille, a typical French pastry at San Miguel Mercado, Madrid

In the end, we leave you with an useful list of bakeries/ dessert places in Spain, followed by some visual delights because photographs are the next best thing to having it for real. We hope when in Spain, you will eat like the locals do. We hope this post gives you a nudge in that direction, at least where the dulces are concerned. Enjoy!

Our recommended list of must visits (in no particular order):

• La Panxa Del Bisbe, a quirky but classy restaurant that serves creative modern Spanish food & desserts - we went there twice during our stay in Barca, and that says a lot
• Brunells, one of the oldest bakeries of Barcelona
• Caelum, a charming bakery in the heart of Gothic quarter, Barcelona
• Xurreria Trebol, a favourite with locals
• Forn Baluard. An institution in Barcelona & known for its breads
• Panaderia Hnos Solana, Granada. A small but quaint bakery popular with the locals
• La Tienda de la Azotea, Seville. Try their tapas as well the torrijas here - divine!
• Ofelia Bakery, Seville. An American bakery very popular with locals. Try their cupcakes, they are amazing.
• Manu Jara, a charming traditional bakery in Triana neighbourhood of Seville
• Santo Tome, Toledo. One of the oldest bakeries in Toledo and known for its marzipan
• Belus, Madrid. Very popular bakery known for its coffee and traditional Spanish desserts
• San Gines Chocolateria, Madrid. A popular tourist destination and has a line all the time
• La Primera, Madrid. A must visit for modern fine dining Spanish food & desserts. Each dish is a work of art. 
• Casa Mira, Madrid. A traditional bakery & a child’s delight -known especially for its turrons
• Antigua Pastelería del Pozo, another traditional bakery in Madrid. Check out their vintage tilling machine!
• La Mallorquina, right at the corner of Puerta del Sol, Madrid. Very popular with both tourists and locals
• El Riojano, Madrid. A traditional Spanish bakery that houses the famous Rosco de Reyes cake
• Mercado San Miguel, a beautiful recently renovated food market place - a must visit. This place is a gastronomic delight

Have you ever thought what does food heaven look like? Well, it just might look like Turkey! In fact, Mr. A & I are still doing the damage control from our trip to Turkey in August and this post will specifically focus on its food scene, savouries to be precise. Desserts & breads deserve a separate post, in HeartBakes - obviously. Food in Turkey is a weighty matter, since I have come back with considerable extra luggage, both on & off me, you see. In our 10 days we realised we have just skimmed its hearty surface but still there’s so much to write home about.

When A & I travel abroad, we just ‘give in’ to the local culture. Food naturally becomes an integral part of our trip. Yes, we actually do our research on places to eat, what (and not) to eat prior to our journey. We get thrilled just by the thought of navigating through the streets, with a map on hand, and an eagle eye on the street names, if present. I think we enjoy the restaurant hunt as much, if not more than, the food that is served. Jostling crowds, small by lanes, uphill & cobbled streets, endless walking, language barrier, broken heels (really!) - nothing does stand in our way to that chosen restaurant. But there have also been times when we have simply chosen to heed local advice and take it as it comes. Turkey has been like that & did not disappoint us either way.

So in this post, and a series of others, I bring to you snapshots of our food journey while in Turkey. With so many grilled dishes, salads, nuts, fresh fruits & vegetables, Turkish cuisine is actually the healthier of the European cuisines. But we also realised that the extent to which all Western cuisines are “Indian-ised” may make it difficult for many to adjust to these simple flavours. But once you approach food with an open mind, at least where flavours are concerned, sky is really the limit. 

In Turkey, come every Friday, locals pour out into a traditional Turkish restaurant called Meyhane, which literally means "wine house". Once you enter, you order drinks (Raki being their local extremely potent drink), followed by a choice of meze. One gets to choose individual portions of cold and hot starters, with local bands keeping you entertained as do the talented locals who love to dance & sing along with their Raki. We have never been to a livelier party really. In Istanbul, the Istikal street, beyoglu is especially known for its night life.

The Kebaps are nothing like what you have had in India. Some might feel that they are mild in flavour, but it’s this very mildness that brings forth the flavours of the meats. Doner Kebap, Tavuk Kebap, Kofte, Testi kebap, Adana kebap - the variety is endless and often specific to a region. For instance, Testi kebaps are more specific to the Anatolian region. I especially loved the koftes or the meatballs which are served with buttered rice and either vegetables or French fries. One also has the option of getting these wrapped in a Turkish pita or Durum wrap, as it’s called. Mr. A on the other hand completely gorged on the grilled fishes.

During lunch, restaurants dish out a buffet with range of dishes to choose from - both vegetarian & non-veg. We were actually surprised to see the range of vegetarian dishes such as eggplants, French beans, Dolmasi (stuffed vine leaves with either rice or meat), spinach, kale, tomatoes, okra. Pumpkins are especially popular in the Anatolian region. Cities still get their vegetable supply from weekly farmer markets from nearby villages. Seriously, a simple tomato & cheese sandwich has never tasted as good, as it did in Turkey.

The buzzing street food in Turkey reflects how important food is in peoples’ lives. Locals still choose to spend hours over cay (pronounced as chai) or Turkish tea on the street side, along with a piece of Baklava. Whereas the locals are sipping their Turkish tea and coffee, it is the tourists who adore the apple tea, specifically. Be it kumpir or kestane, mussels or dried fruits, one cannot go hungry in Turkey for long. 

Apart from these food treasures, I leave you with some of the restaurant reviews that I have written from across the cities that we have visited. Hope you find this useful, in case you are ever traveling to Turkey. I sincerely hope you do, at least once in your lifetime!

Mr. Cook, Istanbul
Turk Art Terrace Restaurant, Istanbul
Ney'le Mey'le Meyhane, Istanbul
Selcuk Pidecesi, Selcuk
Efes Koftecisi, Selcuk
Ejder Restaurant, Selcuk
Nazar Borek, Goreme
Seten Restaurant, Goreme